una buona annata: Portugal: The Pennyroyal Diaries

Lunch at Carmim Winery

When I describe study trips as a marathon of eating, that is no small understatement. Part of the pleasure (and ensuing pain) of our travels is learning all about the production of a particular food, and then consuming it in both traditional and innovative forms. Often. In very large quantities.

Our Slow Food Portugal representative, Victor Lamberto, guided us through the stunning Alentejo region with passion and pride, organizing flurries of tastings and multi-course meals with the most welcoming hosts yet. And, after a week in the country, we could reasonably say we are fully acquainted with these seasonal specialties of Alentejo. From foraging for wild asparagus to helping prepare fresh bread made from traditionally milled wheat, we experienced the gamut of dishes.

However, as is the case in most cultures as Winter weakly gives way to Spring, true seasonal offerings tend to be more limited. Which is why we consumed the same dishes at every group meal, sometimes twice a day. The minor variations were interesting to a point, but when we discovered the rather, um, unique texture and flavour of final helping of a particular migas was due to the addition of pig brains, our adventurousness stalled. And I believe that if any of us ever taste the herb pennyroyal again, it might just be too soon.

But when I consider the warmth of the people who invited us in, answered our ridiculous amount of questions with grace, fed us so proudly and asked us to come and stay with them if we ever return - it's the food for the soul that I'll take with me from Alentejo. Just not the pig brains...