Friday, September 17, 2010

A taste of terroir in Chablis: Jean-Marc Brocard


Chablis:  Snooty French chardonnay.  Expensive.  Minerally.  Distinctive.  And wine we were itching to try...


Our first stop was Jean-Marc Brocard in the commune of Prehy, with stunning vineyards blanketing the rolling hills around the 15th century Sainte-Claire Chapel.


A family-run winery, Jean-Marc Brocard has been producing only since 1973, but have expanded tremendously during their short years.  Their scale of production is massive in many respects, with a well-constructed educational cellar and a tasting room that looks out over vineyards as far as the eye can see.  However, the operation still manages to feel small, friendly and relatively innovative, another interesting factor being the biodynamic vineyards and wines, a passion of Julien, son of the owner.


Chateau Grenouille, queen of the Grand Cru Chablis
And yes, Grenouille means frog... and also the appellation/
vineyard these grapes come from.

Found in the vineyard at Jean-Marc Brocard

The soils of Burgundy, and where each wine is allowed to be produced

View from inside the tasting room

And the wines were lovely - the different soils and that elusive sense of terroir tangible in each sip.  I didn't fall for every wine, but it was fascinating to note the differences between the Crus.  The Petit Chablis (grown in less venerable vineyards on the flats) was crisp and affordable, and I fell in love with the Premier Cru Montmains.  There will be a bottle of this served at Christmas dinner this year.


Lunch was a quick prix-fixe menu in a quaint cellar in Chablis.  And as if there wasn't enough wine, next up on the agenda was the marathon of minerality at La Chablisienne . . .




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