All About Cork

Once upon a time, two brothers were immigrating to Australia when their ship broke down in Porto.  By the time the repairs were complete, only one continued on the long sea journey.  Having fallen in love with Portugal, the other remained and started producing port, buying up farms throughout the Alentejo as he sourced cork for his bottles.  Port production was eventually abandoned in favour of cork production, and five generations later, 24 excited students bounded out of Pepe's bus eager to embark on the promised 7km hike through Philip's farm.  While genuinely interested in learning about a new area of production, we were equally enthused about actual exercise in the great outdoors.

The morning did not disappoint.  33% of cork worldwide comes from Portugal, and 95% of that originates in the Alentejo.  And Portugal processes 70% of the world's cork; clearly, this is no small local industry.  Joined by various dogs of all breeds, sizes and dubious natural odours, we trekked happily in the sun as Philip pointed out the layout of the groves. 

I was surprised to learn that cork is actually the layer around the bark.  As it protects the tree, it can only be harvested when the tree "sweats", in a short 3 week window when the temperatures shift from cold to hot. 

It is also a long range production; from acorn to the first stripping of the cork takes some 40-50 years.  And as cork can only be harvested every 9-13 years, careful practices are critical and everything is done by hand by highly skilled workers. 

Even one slip of the axe can cause irreversible damage.  5-6 incisions are made around the tree and a handle is used to pry off sheets that are only good for processing for 10 days afterwards. 

Thickness and density are the keys to quality; Philip's farm produces midrange cork with medium thickness but high density.



Germinating cork acorns


In the 1980s, cork production was able to pay for nine children to attend boarding school and university in England: it now barely breaks even.  Surprising for an industry that is constantly discussed as at risk.  According to producers however, the cork industry hasn't tried to help matters by keeping costs low, watching quality or trying to market it more effectively as ecological.  Considering high subsidies for European farming, it is interesting to note there is absolutely no government support for this industry. 

While Philip's family primarily produces cork closures for wine, they have also diversified in the wake of prices that have dropped 60-70%.  Black Iberian pigs are transported from Spain to be finished on acorns in the stone oak groves; the family is paid by kilo gained. 

As well, 10 hectares of their land is turned over to dry-farmed vineyards.  Originally planned to be sold to cooperatives, they opted for a Portuguese winemaker trained in California and Australia.  60% of their grapes are Shiraz and the rest are Touriga Nacionale.  While their 15,000 bottles per year are generally sold in advance or allocated - we were fortunate enough to taste - and buy.  A particularly good girls night two weeks later with Casey and Lindsy in Via Pollenzo was greatly enhanced by a bottle of Shiraz...

An impromptu visit a couple of hours later to a cork processing facility was a great opportunity to see the stages from sheet to wine cork . . . or to hand bags?!? 

Only on stage . . .