The morning did not disappoint. 33% of cork worldwide comes from Portugal, and 95% of that originates in the Alentejo. And Portugal processes 70% of the world's cork; clearly, this is no small local industry. Joined by various dogs of all breeds, sizes and dubious natural odours, we trekked happily in the sun as Philip pointed out the layout of the groves.
It is also a long range production; from acorn to the first stripping of the cork takes some 40-50 years. And as cork can only be harvested every 9-13 years, careful practices are critical and everything is done by hand by highly skilled workers.
Even one slip of the axe can cause irreversible damage. 5-6 incisions are made around the tree and a handle is used to pry off sheets that are only good for processing for 10 days afterwards.
Thickness and density are the keys to quality; Philip's farm produces midrange cork with medium thickness but high density.
Germinating cork acorns |
In the 1980s, cork production was able to pay for nine children to attend boarding school and university in England: it now barely breaks even. Surprising for an industry that is constantly discussed as at risk. According to producers however, the cork industry hasn't tried to help matters by keeping costs low, watching quality or trying to market it more effectively as ecological. Considering high subsidies for European farming, it is interesting to note there is absolutely no government support for this industry.
While Philip's family primarily produces cork closures for wine, they have also diversified in the wake of prices that have dropped 60-70%. Black Iberian pigs are transported from Spain to be finished on acorns in the stone oak groves; the family is paid by kilo gained.
An impromptu visit a couple of hours later to a cork processing facility was a great opportunity to see the stages from sheet to wine cork . . . or to hand bags?!?
Only on stage . . .
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