You realize that after several smooth train journeys in a row, you're overdue for a gong show day. Ours involved a toddler with a piercing shriek and a penchant for loudly battering a plastic suitcase with a toy hammer, a young mother more interested in her cell phone conversations and flirting with the men in the hallway and a train that enjoyed hanging out at every stop for upwards of 25 minutes. The train between Naples and Rom was 95 minutes late - and yet we still beat the class to Spello.
We met Liz on the Spello platform, freshly arrived from Rome, were duly picked up and whisked away to a gorgeous agriturismo (bed and breakfast where a percentage of the food served has to come from their own working farm) with views of an ancient tower.
Reunited over dinner at our place, all dishes produced locally or on-site right down to the ceramic plates, we toasted Umbria with our usual early-stage vigour.
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