Blessed

Umbria in Fall is incredibly moody - menacing storm clouds bank across lush hillsides and deliver short, fierce rains. Yet the sun shines brilliantly at regular intervals, backlighting changing trees in almost celestial light.

By mid-morning, our little bus was trundling through rolling hills of vibrant red and yellow leaved vines and jumpsuit clad men harvesting olives onto nets spread on the ground.

Arnaldo Caprai is perched midway up a gentle slope overlooking valleys of newly harvested grapevines. This venerable winery, started by the Caprai family of luxurious textile fame, started in the 1970s with a simple vision: to reclaim indigenous varietals in a quality-focused way. 

As a result, Caprai spearheaded the renewed production of Sagrantino, a highly tannic, rich, ruby red wine that ages extremely well.  We were warmly welcomed in their modern tasting room that felt like a chic urban bar.

But the highlight was definitely hanging out in their production area, watching the grapes begin their transformation into wine.

After a particularly long aperitivo in the bar, chatting with the owner over crostini with their homemade olive oil with crisp white Grechetto, we moved to their dining facility for lunch.

When foodies gather, photos come first

Complete with a singing ham of a chef, our beautiful repast was enhanced by tasting the range of their wines, from blends to their 25th Anniversary Sagrantino. 

The aftermath...

Replete and happy, we stumbled onto the bus, only to be ejected quickly in the small hamlet of Bevanda.

Macelleria Norcineria da Tagliavento is a gorgeous little shop that fulfills the fairytale image of an old world charcuterie.  It even has the romantic backstory - a man and a woman from rival butchering families meet, fall in love and combine businesses.  They demonstrated fresh cuts, as well as walking us through the traditional cured meats of the region.

Strolling back to our bus in the cool night air, we walked into a heated football game in the main square.  Within seconds, Team UNISG sprung into action and joined the fray.  We were still howling with laughter a few minutes later and Andy's shriek-a-thon with a 14 year old who wanted to scare him away from the ball.  Wiping tears from our eyes, Jesse turned to me.  "What did we do to deserve this?"

And there's really no way to answer that question.  We don't.  No matter that we all worked hard to get here, overturning our lives at home and embarking on debt.

Simply put, we're blessed.  And we know it.