Monday, October 4, 2010

You never forget your first . . .

Michelin-starred dinner, that is.

As our eventful day of wine-tasting was winding down and we were all sprawled out in the office of Paolo Scavino, chatting to Weston, Rasoul asked for some help with dinner.  We'd experienced some fruitless phone calls for reservations in recommended restaurants and were, rather shamelessly, hoping some clout would land us a spot somewhere.  Weston, in keeping with his royal treatment of us throughout the afternoon, didn't disappoint.  He waved us off for a meal at La Ciau del Tornavento, a one Michelin Starred beauty in the hilltop village of Treiso just outside of Alba, imploring us to order the finanziera and promising to join us for drinks if possible.

I may be a gastronome by education now, but my palate is a fledgling one and Vancouver isn't exactly hopping with Michelin stars.  Expectations were sky-high - and so was my anticipation of the bill.  No matter.  This was clearly going to be a night to remember.


The drive was stunning, steep hillsides rolling tightly around the road planted with orderly rows of vines as far as the eye could see. 


We pulled up in front of the restaurant, our jaws dropping at the view laid out all across the valley below.  Despite the fact we were early, we were seated quickly, greeted by everyone who crossed our path.  And thus began the most impeccable dining experience of my life.

As darkness descended, the views out the entire wall of windows faded, but the elegant warmth of the dining room grew.  Our waiter was quiet, efficient and excellent - our service seamless.  The additional element of friendship was added when we discovered he had lived in Vancouver for ten years, just around the corner from Rasoul and the wineries' head office.  We began with a tour of the perfectly ordered wine cellar, returning to the table to discuss the tasting menu with our waiter.




Artisanal breads were brought,

a glass of white was paired with our multiple courses of amuse-bouche,

Anchovy with tomato compote

and the marathon of tasting began.


Fresh porcini and wild mushroom salad

Served with a flourish - two waiters arrived at our table,
placed a box in front of each of us, and with the perfect
sense of drama, opened the lids simultaneously to reveal . . .

Perfectly poached egg with white truffle

Agnolotti steamed in a nest of fragrant hay

The illustrious finanziera - a local autumn dish of rooster parts:
coxcombs, sweetbreads, liver, lungs etc in a rich braise.

Fresh cream with glazed chesnuts served before dessert and the pastry tray
And a marathon it was.  There are three courses I quite simply forgot to photograph in the overstimulation of the senses.

I have never been so full in all my life, but at the same time so utterly satisfied in every respect.  There is a reason restaurants gain Michelin stars - the combination of atmosphere, service and spectacular dishes create an incomparable experience that transcends mere dining.  While it may be true that you never forget your first, it's hard to imagine future experiences could improve on this one.

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